The F 250 has come a long way since I got it. But there's still a lot to do.
Doing some body work and epoxy primer from Eastwood helped a lot. Luckily the stock painted grill was in good shape.
Replacing the 16 inch E series truck tires with lower profile Westlake 16 inch SUV tires improved the looks. I found the Westlakes for a good price at Walmart. To maintain that great stock rake angle I used Westlake SU318 H/T 235/70/R16 106T front. And Westlake SU318 H/T 255/65/R16 109T rear. I used TireSize.com to help deterimine tire height, width, and aspect ratio for that perfect attitude. The stock 8 lug wheels were cleaned and painted with some nice Chrome lug nuts from Amazon. And stainless trim rings from LMC Truck.
I like the stock wheels. Mostly because I don't plan to convert to disc brakes. But the big wheel look is interesting. BigWheels.Net has a great site for choosing custom 8 lug wheels to fit the stock drums.
New water pump, radiator, electric fan, master cylinder, brake drums and shoes (all from LMC Truck) have been installed. Along with all new glass and mirrors. The original Dana 60 rear end was opened and fresh gear oil, bearings, seals, and a nice chrome differential cover from LMC Truck was installed. The New Process 4 speed transmission fluid was changed. A nice 6000 lb. hitch receiver from LMC Truck was also installed.
The heads have been machined for hardened exhaust valve seats and all new valves. I tried shorty headers but they didn't fit well. So its either stock exhaust manifolds or full length headers. I'm planning on an aluminum Edelbrock Performer 2105 4 Barrel Intake and Performer 1405 600 cfm (manual choke) Carburetor from Summit Racing Equipment. The electric choke version is the Edelbrock Performer 1406 600 cfm.
Time to install a 1968 re-manufactured Ford power steering gear and a later (quieter) Saginaw pump. Some of the motor mount perch was cut away so the gear would fit. But its in and I need to shorten the steering shaft and grind it for a DD / 36 spline universal to replace the rag joint. That should make the truck steer easier. Check out the Power Steering Mods Blog.
Next up: wiring. All the grounds need cleaned and re-seated. The headlights dim when braking. So I have to build an engine compartment fuse block with relays for the headlights and electric fan. There is a great Youtube Video by The Fab Forums about that. I plan to replace the under dash fuse block too. I think replacing the tail lights with LED units from LMC Truck will help reduce the resistance of the long wire run to rear of truck.
Bondo was used on the front fenders because they were too far gone. I will get new ones from LMC Truck after I get the steering, lowering, and wiring done.
Soon it will be time for interior work.
Mabbco in Texas offers re-manufactured 352 FE long block engines for around $1800. Maabco Motors, USA will ship the long block right to my place for about $300. They said they would be happy to put an RV cam in for me. That should go nice with the Ford 352 FE Edlebrock intake and 4 bbl carburetor from Summit Racing Equipment.
I plan to lower the truck about 2 to 3 inches so the top of the wheel wells are just below the top of the tires. I bought some lowering shackles and 4 degree pinion shims from AirBagIt for the rear leaf springs. It's okay to cut two coils out of the front coil springs without affecting camber too much. That oughta do it.
Eventually the in cab gas tank is going to be replaced by an under bed unit from LMC Truck. The truck will look so much better removing the gas inlet from the drivers side cab.
I want to clean and coat the bed. But LMC Truck sells a nice Tonneau Bed Cover that will look great and hide all that bed rust until then.
Posted April 2018